Door Hardware Guide: Locks, Hinges, and Strike Plates

Door hardware is the part of a door you touch every day, yet it is often overlooked until something stops working. A lock that will not turn, a hinge that squeaks, or a latch that misses the strike plate can turn a secure door into an annoyance or a security risk.

This guide explains the main types of door hardware, what each part does, how to spot wear, and when to repair versus replace. It is written for Canadian homes, where doors face humidity, freeze-thaw cycles, and heavy daily use.

Locksets and Deadbolts

The lockset is the primary locking mechanism on most doors. It includes the handle or knob, the latch bolt, and the internal mechanism that retracts the bolt when you turn the handle.

A deadbolt is a separate locking device that extends a solid bolt into the frame when locked. Unlike a spring latch, a deadbolt does not retract automatically and requires a key or thumb turn to operate. Deadbolts are the main defence against forced entry on exterior doors.

Common lockset types include:

Passage lockset: locks neither side, used on closet or interior doors where privacy is not needed.
Privacy lockset: locks from one side with a turn button, common on bathrooms and bedrooms.
Entry lockset: locks from both sides with a key outside and a turn or button inside, used on exterior doors.
Deadbolt: single-cylinder (key outside, thumb turn inside) or double-cylinder (key both sides), used for added security on exterior doors.

A double-cylinder deadbolt can be a safety concern because it requires a key to exit. In an emergency, that delay matters. Many Canadian municipalities discourage or restrict double-cylinder deadbolts on required exit doors.

Hinges

Hinges carry the weight of the door and allow it to swing. Most residential doors use two or three hinges. Exterior and heavier doors often use three, with the bottom hinge carrying most of the load.

Signs of hinge problems include:

The door has dropped and rubs at the bottom.
Hinge screws turn freely or have pulled out of the wood.
The hinge leaves are bent or the pin is loose.
The door lifts when you move the handle.
There is a visible gap change between the top and bottom of the door.

A loose hinge screw can sometimes be tightened or replaced with a longer screw into solid framing. A bent hinge should be replaced, not straightened. Matching the hinge size and screw pattern matters, especially on heavier exterior doors.

Strike Plates

When a latch misses the strike, the sticking door guide explains how hinge or frame movement can affect alignment.

The strike plate is the metal plate on the frame that the latch and deadbolt enter when the door is closed. It is one of the most important security components, yet it is often installed with short screws that only grip the trim.

A good strike plate setup includes:

A plate screwed into the structural framing with long screws, not just the door jamb.
Proper alignment so the bolt enters fully without the door being lifted or pushed.
A plate that is not worn, enlarged, or loose.

If the door needs lifting to lock, the strike plate has likely shifted or the door has dropped. Enlarging the strike opening is a temporary fix that reduces security. Correcting the alignment is the proper repair.

Other Hardware Components

Beyond locks, hinges, and strike plates, doors use several other hardware items:

Door closer: a hydraulic device that closes the door automatically, common on commercial and fire-rated doors.
Kick plate: a metal plate at the bottom of the door that protects against scuffs and impacts.
Door viewer: a peephole that lets you see who is outside without opening the door.
Door chain or limiter: a secondary device that allows partial opening while keeping the door secured.
Smart lock: an electronic lock operated by phone, code, or fob, often paired with a traditional deadbolt.
Flush bolts: used on double doors to secure the inactive leaf at the top and bottom.
Edge pulls and pulls: used on sliding doors and some patio doors.

Canadian Climate and Hardware

Canadian conditions affect door hardware in specific ways:

Winter cold can make locks stiff and lubricants thick.
Humidity swells wooden doors and frames, changing latch alignment.
Freeze-thaw cycles can shift frames, causing hinges to pull and latches to miss.
Coastal salt air can corrode hardware, especially on exterior doors near the ocean.
Repeated use on entry doors wears cylinders, hinges, and strike plates faster than on interior doors.

A hardware problem that appears in winter may be caused by seasonal frame movement rather than a failed lock. Check alignment before replacing parts.

Security Considerations

Security depends on the door, frame, and hardware working together. An expensive lock on a weak frame or hollow door offers limited protection.

Key security checks:

The deadbolt should extend fully into the strike plate when the door is closed normally.
Strike plate screws should reach the framing, ideally 75 millimetres or longer.
The frame around the lock should be solid, not split or soft.
The door itself should be solid-core or insulated, not hollow, on exterior entries.
Glass near the lock should be laminated or otherwise resistant to easy breaking.

Smart locks offer convenience but should have a mechanical backup, weather resistance, and reliable battery life. Do not rely on a smart lock alone on an exterior door in a Canadian winter, when cold can affect battery performance.

Maintenance

Door hardware needs little attention, but a little care prevents most failures:

Tighten hinge screws annually without over-tightening.
Lubricate lock cylinders and hinges with a product suited to the material.
Keep the latch and strike plate free of dirt and paint buildup.
Test that the deadbolt extends fully each season.
Check that the door still closes and locks without lifting or forcing.
Clean smart lock contacts and replace batteries before cold weather.

When to Repair or Replace Hardware

Repair is usually appropriate when:

A single screw is loose and the wood is sound.
A lock cylinder is sticky but turns with lubricant.
A strike plate is loose but the alignment is correct.
A hinge pin is loose but the leaves are straight.

Replacement is worth considering when:

The lock is old, worn, or no longer latches securely.
Hinges are bent, stripped, or cannot carry the door weight.
The frame around the lock is split or rotted.
You are upgrading security and the existing hardware cannot be reinforced.
Parts for an older or imported lock are unavailable.

What to Photograph Before You Call

The full door from inside and outside.
The latch and strike plate, with the door closed and open.
Each hinge, including screws and any torn wood around them.
The deadbolt extended and retracted.
The frame around the lock area.
Any rub marks, gaps, or misalignment.

Take photos in daylight and include one wide shot for context.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just the lock cylinder?

Often yes, if the lockset is a standard cylindrical or deadbolt type and a matching cylinder is available. Some integrated locks require replacing the whole unit.

Do I need a deadbolt if I have a good lockset?

Yes, on exterior doors. A lockset latch is convenient but offers limited resistance to force. A deadbolt is the main security device.

Can I install a double-cylinder deadbolt?

You can, but consider safety. It requires a key to exit from inside, which can delay escape in an emergency. Check local requirements first.

How long do door hinges last?

Good hinges can last decades on interior doors. Exterior hinges on heavy doors may need attention sooner, especially in coastal or high-use settings.

Why does my lock work in summer but not winter?

Wooden doors and frames swell and shrink with humidity and temperature. A marginal alignment may work in one season and fail in another.

Should I lubricate my lock?

Use a dry lubricant or graphite designed for locks. Avoid oil or WD-40, which can attract dirt and gum up the mechanism.

Hardware Cost Expectations

Treat any figure you see online as a planning range rather than a quote. The actual price depends on the hardware type, brand, door weight, and whether the frame or strike needs work.

As a general planning guide:

Tightening loose hinge screws: usually the lowest-cost option, often part of a service call.
Replacing a latch or strike plate: a modest cost, because the parts are small and the work is quick.
Replacing a lock cylinder or deadbolt: a moderate cost, depending on the brand and security grade.
Replacing hinges: a moderate cost, especially on heavy exterior doors that need larger hinges.
Frame or strike repair around the lock: variable, and can rise if the wood is soft or split.
Smart lock installation: a higher cost, because the unit itself is more expensive than a mechanical lock.

Ask for a written quote that separates parts, labour, and any frame work. A single lump sum makes it hard to tell whether one contractor is using a lower-grade lock or excluding the strike plate.

Working With Your Contractor on Hardware

A good contractor will:

Identify whether the problem is the hardware, the alignment, or the frame before quoting.
Match the lock and hinge grade to the door weight and use.
Use long screws that reach the framing for the strike plate, not just the trim.
Test that the deadbolt extends fully without lifting or forcing the door.
Explain whether a repair or a full hardware upgrade is the better value.

If a contractor recommends replacing every lock because one is sticky without checking alignment first, get a second opinion. Many hardware problems are alignment issues, not failed locks.

Door Hardware Quick Reference

Tighten hinge screws annually without over-tightening.
Lubricate lock cylinders and hinges with a dry lubricant or graphite.
Test that the deadbolt extends fully without lifting or forcing the door.
Confirm strike plate screws reach the framing, not just the trim.
Check that the door closes and locks without lifting or pushing.
Replace worn weatherstripping and door sweeps.
Address sticking or binding early before it strains the hardware.
Get a second opinion if a contractor replaces locks without checking alignment.

Can I replace just one hinge?

You can, but hinges wear at similar rates. Replacing the pair on a door keeps operation even and avoids a second visit soon after.

Does a new lock improve security by itself?

Not on a weak frame or hollow door. The lock, strike plate, frame, and door all need to work together for real security.